Reactive dog training is a challenging but rewarding process. It requires patience, consistency, and a deep understanding of canine behavior.
Dogs become reactive due to a combination of genetics, environment, and life experiences.
Reactivity is not the same as aggression, although the two can look similar. Reactivity is often a result of fear or anxiety, which can be triggered by various stimuli, such as people, dogs, or noises.
A reactive dog's brain is wired to respond quickly to perceived threats, making it difficult to control impulses.
Additional reading: Reactivity Dog Training near Me
Understanding Reactive Behavior
Reactive behavior in dogs can be overwhelming, but understanding it is the first step to helping your furry friend feel more calm and secure.
Dogs can be reactive due to fear or frustration, with fear-based reactivity stemming from a desire to get away from something scary, and frustration-based reactivity coming from a desire to get closer to something exciting.
Recognizing the signs of over-confidence that may turn into aggression is crucial, such as a tense body posture, raised and stiff tail, hackles on the back, bare teeth, visible gums, dilated pupils, and ears pulled back or forward.
A dog's reactivity threshold is the point where they fully react to their triggers, and it's essential to keep them under threshold as much as possible by working at a comfortable, safe distance from triggers.
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What Does Mean?
Reactivity generally encompasses a range of unwanted behaviors in situations that typically don’t warrant them. This can include barking, growling, lunging, jumping, and pulling.
Recognizing the signs of reactivity is key. A dog who barks, growls, and lunges at every other dog they see out on a walk, even if that other pup is minding their own business, would be considered reactive.
Knowing your dog's temperament and body language can help you identify when they're about to become reactive. Signs of over-confidence that may turn into aggression include a tense body posture, raised and stiff tail, hackles on the back, and visible teeth.
A happy and relaxed dog, on the other hand, has a loose posture, a wagging tail, and visible relaxation signs.
Related reading: Training Reactive Dog on Leash
What Is Your Limit?
Your dog's reactivity threshold is the point where they fully react to their triggers. They're not even aware of their own actions at this point.
Working with a reactive dog often means keeping them under threshold as much as possible. This usually means working at a comfortable, safe distance from triggers.
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Your dog will know the trigger is there, but they won't be overwhelmed. If you can control the trigger's intensity and duration, that can work too.
It can take one to two full days for your dog's body to come down from the cortisol and adrenaline highs after going over threshold.
Intriguing read: Trigger the Dog
Getting Started
Understanding reactive behavior requires a willingness to observe and acknowledge your own patterns.
Reactive behavior is often rooted in past experiences and can be triggered by various stimuli.
The first step in addressing reactive behavior is to become aware of your triggers. As we learned in the article, common triggers include criticism, rejection, and perceived threats.
Self-reflection is key to identifying your personal triggers and understanding why they affect you so strongly.
A great place to start is by keeping a journal or log of your reactions and the events that triggered them. This will help you recognize patterns and gain insight into your behavior.
By taking ownership of your reactions and acknowledging your triggers, you'll be better equipped to manage your behavior and respond more thoughtfully in the future.
Additional reading: Reactive Dog Training Seattle
Mouthing vs Behavior
Mouthing is a normal behavior in puppies, especially at a young age, as they investigate their environment through their sense of smell and mouthing.
Puppies are naturally curious and use their mouths to explore their surroundings, which can sometimes be misinterpreted as over-excitement or stimulation.
If your pup is too mouthy, they may need a break and time to calm down to prevent mouthing from turning into a behavioral issue in the future.
Training and socialization are key to preventing mouthing from becoming a problem, and it's essential to do this while your pup is still young.
Identifying and Managing Triggers
Identifying triggers is a crucial step in reactive dog training. Triggers are anything that acts as a stimulus to make your dog react dramatically, such as a strange person, other dogs, or both.
Some common triggers include adult humans, especially strangers, children, other dogs, prey animals, and fast-moving objects. Dogs can become reactive to just about anything, but it's essential to identify the specific triggers that cause your dog's reactivity.
To manage triggers, you can try to avoid them while working on a training plan. For example, if your dog is reactive to other dogs on a leash, try walking them when others aren't out, and avoid the dog park. You can also manage the environment by hiding triggers, such as putting shoes away if your dog chews on them.
Here are some common triggers that may cause reactivity in dogs:
- Adult humans (especially strangers)
- Children
- Other dogs
- Prey animals (like cats, rabbits, squirrels, and birds)
- Fast-moving objects (like cars, bikes, or skateboards)
By understanding and managing triggers, you can help your dog feel more comfortable and reduce their reactivity.
What Is a Trigger?
A trigger is anything that causes your dog to react. Triggers can be found in today's crowded world.
Some common triggers include adult humans, especially strangers, people wearing uncommon clothing, associated with a scary past experience, or approaching in a certain way. Children can also be a trigger due to their quick and erratic movements.
Other common triggers are other dogs, prey animals like cats, rabbits, squirrels, and birds, and fast-moving objects like cars, bikes, or skateboards. Some dogs react to their triggers in all situations, while others only react to specific images.
For example, some dogs only react to pointy-eared dogs directly approaching them at a certain distance. There are different levels of reactivity, ranging from mild to intense reactions.
Identifying Triggers
Identifying your dog's triggers is the first step in managing their reactivity. Triggers are anything that causes your dog to react dramatically, such as a strange person, other dogs, or children.
Some dogs are reactive to these stimuli in all situations, while others might only be reactive in certain contexts. For example, some dogs are fine with other dogs off-leash, but become reactive when they are on a leash, known as leash reactivity.
Common triggers include adult humans, especially strangers, people wearing uncommon clothing, children, other dogs, prey animals, and fast-moving objects like cars or bikes.
Here are some examples of triggers to watch out for:
- Adult humans (especially strangers, people wearing uncommon clothing)
- Children
- Other dogs
- Prey animals like cats, rabbits, or squirrels
- Fast-moving objects like cars, bikes, or skateboards
Some dogs react to their triggers in all situations, while others react only to specific images or situations. It's essential to identify your dog's unique triggers to develop an effective management plan.
Training and Desensitization
Desensitization involves getting our dogs used to their triggers slowly, in small doses that don’t put them over threshold. While it can be difficult to implement in the “real world”, it’s a valuable technique in controlled situations.
Distance matters when it comes to desensitization – ideally, you want to keep your dog at a distance where they're not stressed enough to “go wild” but still under threshold.
Intensity and duration also matter in desensitization – you want to gradually increase exposure to triggers in small increments.
You can use a long leash to help your dog sniff and move naturally while desensitizing them to triggers – this can be especially helpful when you're at a distance where they're not yet reactive.
Desensitization is just one part of managing reactivity – it's essential to work with expert dog trainers who can teach you and your dog how to handle reactivity effectively.
Desensitization can be incredibly helpful when paired with counterconditioning, which involves pairing triggers with positive experiences to change your dog's emotional response over time.
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Managing Behavior and Emotions
Managing behavior and emotions in reactive dogs requires a two-pronged approach: training and management. Training is aimed at changing a dog's behavior on the long run, while management is about setting up the environment to make good behavior likely.
Management can be as simple as hiding shoes to prevent chewing or placing a puppy in a crate with a delicious bone to help them settle at night. For anxious and stressed dogs, proper management is crucial to prevent escalations and ensure a comfortable and happy life.
By addressing a dog's basic needs, such as exercise frequency and type, you can often improve frustration-based dog reactivity and general overarousal. This can be especially true for breeds with strong genetic drives, such as herding or chasing instincts.
Behavior Based on Emotion
Puppies often mouth objects to investigate their environment, which is normal for young dogs. Mouthing can be a sign of over-excitement or stimulation.
Mouthing can be prevented from turning into a behavioral issue by training and socializing your pup while they're young. If your pup is too mouthy, they may need a break and time to calm down.
Reactive dogs often have one of two goals: getting away from something scary or getting closer to something exciting. Fear-based reactivity is about avoiding something, while frustration-based reactivity is about interacting with something they can't.
For more insights, see: Fear Reactivity in Dogs
Frustration-based leash reactivity is common in social dogs who love interacting with other pets but get frustrated when they can't. This can lead to serious aggression, especially when being held back on a leash.
Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) builds confidence in dogs by employing principles of desensitization while allowing them to learn to control their environment. Treats and direct rewards are used less in BAT than in other methods.
Some dogs' reactivity is caused by unmet genetic drives, such as herders being hyper-aware of their surroundings or terriers having an intense desire to chase prey. This can be a major contributor to their reactivity.
General overarousal can also be a cause of reactivity, especially in dogs that can't seem to settle down even in familiar environments. This can be exacerbated by a lack of training and overall stress.
Management is a crucial part of dog training, especially for anxious and stressed dogs. It involves setting up the dog's environment to make good behavior likely, rather than teaching them to stop bad behavior.
Resource Guarding
Resource Guarding is a common issue in dog ownership. Dogs will fiercely guard their valuable resources like food, toys, or favorite spots at home.
To prevent reactive behavior, it's essential to train your dog basic commands. Training your dog the "Leave it", "Off", "Drop", and "Out" commands can help them learn to let go of their favorite things.
You can also try exchanging the object your dog is guarding with another one that still interests them. This can help redirect their attention and reduce possessiveness.
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Basic Needs and Self-Care
Meeting your dog's basic needs is a great place to start when addressing reactivity. Frustration-based dog reactivity can often be improved by simply addressing your pet's underlying needs, such as feeling ill, in pain, or unfulfilled.
Increasing exercise frequency and type can help. This can include activities that let your dog move their body and use their brain in natural ways. It's possible that your dog is displaying reactive behaviors as signs of feeling unfulfilled.
Taking care of yourself is also crucial. Living with a reactive dog can be overwhelming, and it's okay to admit when you're tired or feeling jealous of other dog owners.
Meet Basic Needs
Meeting Basic Needs is a crucial step in improving your dog's behavior. Frustration-based dog reactivity can often be improved by addressing underlying needs.
Your dog might be displaying reactive behaviors as signs of feeling ill or in pain. It's possible that their needs aren't being met, leading to frustration.
Increasing exercise frequency and type can help meet your dog's physical needs. This can include activities that let them move their body and use their brain in natural ways.
Evaluating your dog's basic needs before focusing on training situations is always a good idea. Even if their reactivity is driven by more than a treatable health or fulfillment problem, meeting their needs will help maximize training success.
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Take Care of Yourself!
It's okay to feel overwhelmed when living with a reactive dog. The constant vigilance and stress can be exhausting.
You don't have to be perfect, and it's okay to miss a training session here and there. In fact, taking care of yourself is crucial before you can give your dog what they need.
Self-care is essential, and it's not selfish. You have to fill your own cup before you can give your dog the attention and care they require.
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Training Techniques and Equipment
Using a long line can actually increase stress in reactive dogs, so it's better to keep them at a distance where they're not yet reacting.
Keeping a healthy distance is key, so if you're too close to a trigger, you're too close regardless of whether you're using a long line or not.
A long line can actually be helpful when your dog is at a safe distance, allowing them to sniff and move naturally without restrictions.
You can also use equipment like a gentle leader or harness to help with walks. The gentle leader can be especially helpful when you need to redirect your dog's head, and the harness can discourage pulling.
These tools can make a big difference in helping your dog understand your cues and reducing reactive tendencies.
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Scenario Set Up
Setting up scenarios is a crucial part of helping your reactive dog feel calmer around their triggers. Suzanne Clothier has a webinar on this topic, called "Quick — Hit PAUSE!" through Relationship Centered Training.
Creating neutral or positive experiences to change your dog's underlying emotions is key to behavior modification training programs. Most of these programs involve setting up scenarios to help your dog get used to their triggers at a safe distance.
Exposing your dog to triggers at a safe distance can help them become more familiar and calm in their presence. Understanding your dog's body language and threshold is crucial when applying this approach.
Make sure to start by tackling specific reactivity scenarios, as this is where actual reactive dog training begins. This involves creating neutral or positive experiences to change your dog's underlying emotions and help them feel calmer around their triggers.
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Use Essential Equipment
Using a long line can actually help your reactive dog by allowing them to sniff and move naturally without restrictions, which is especially helpful when they're at a distance from a trigger.
A gentle leader or harness can be a game-changer for walks, helping to redirect your dog's head and giving you more control over their movements.
Some types of harnesses clip in the front of the dog, which can discourage them from pulling on the leash.
Proper equipment can make a big difference in reducing reactive tendencies in your dog, making it easier to understand your cues and stay calm in stressful situations.
Train with Experts
If you're struggling to manage your dog's reactivity, it's essential to seek professional help. You can consult a trainer or training organization near you that specializes in correcting reactive dogs' behavior.
One of the best options is to work with expert dog trainers who can teach you and your dog how to handle reactivity. They can provide personalized guidance and support.
You can check the organizations near you, engaged in dog training and correcting reactive dogs' behavior in particular. This will help you find the right expert to work with your dog.
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Games and Exercises
Mental exercise is just as important as physical exertion for reactive dogs. It helps them think carefully and solve puzzles with smartness rather than force.
One idea is to hide a treat in a room and tell your dog the name of the room. As they learn, you can gradually add more rooms to the game.
Repeating puzzles is key to teaching problem-solving skills. I recommend presenting the same puzzle multiple times to help your dog pay attention to their strategy and remember it.
Play is also essential for reactive dogs. You can try a "Find It" game by throwing treats on the ground and giving the command "find it."
Observation games like engage-disengage and look at that use counter conditioning principles can help your dog feel calmer and think more clearly around triggers.
Here are some effective games for training a reactive dog:
- Names of Rooms: Hide a treat in a room and tell your dog the name of the room.
- Hidden Treats: Hide treats with objects like towels, plastic cups, and cardboard boxes.
- Find It: Throw treats on the ground and give the command "find it."
- Observation Games: Engage-disengage and look at games that use counter conditioning principles.
Household Changes and Routine
Dogs thrive on routines, which help them understand their surroundings better and feel more focused, calm, and safe in stressful situations.
To create a comfortable environment for your dog, making small changes to your home can be a big help. You can use a baby gate, curtains, or blinds to block your dog's view of the window, which can help reduce reactivity.
A baby gate or fence around your backyard can also make a big difference, especially if your dog tends to get riled up when they see people or animals outside. Having a good recall can help calm them down if they do become reactive.
Here are some common household changes to consider:
- Window Reactivity: Block your dog's view of the window with a baby gate, curtains, or blinds.
- Backyard Reactivity: Build a fence around your backyard or practice walking your dog on a leash.
Establish a Routine
Establishing a routine is key to creating a sense of calm and focus in your household, especially when dealing with changes. Dogs, for instance, like routines as they help them understand everything better and feel more focused, calm, and safe in stressful situations.
Having a set routine can also help reduce anxiety in both humans and animals. By establishing a regular schedule, you can create a sense of predictability and stability that can be especially helpful during times of change.
Routines can be as simple as setting a regular feeding time or creating a daily exercise plan. Consistency is key, so try to stick to your routine as closely as possible, even on weekends or days off.
Household Changes
Making small changes to your home can help reduce your dog's reactivity and ensure they are more comfortable.
One simple change is to use a baby gate, curtains, or blinds to keep your dog away from windows. This can help break the cycle of reactivity, as your dog may be growling and barking at the window thinking it's making the person or animal go away.
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A backyard fence can also make a big difference. By blocking your dog's view of the outside, you can reduce their reactivity and create a more peaceful environment.
Having a good recall is essential for calming your dog down if they become riled up while on a leash. This means teaching your dog to come back to you immediately when called.
Here are some common forms of household reactivity and potential solutions:
- Window Reactivity: Use a baby gate, curtains, or blinds to block your dog's view.
- Backyard Reactivity: Build a fence around your backyard and practice walking your dog on a leash.
Body Language and Communication
Knowing your dog's body language is crucial for effective communication and training. Happy and relaxed dogs have a loose posture, with their tails wagging and ears relaxed.
Happy dogs are easy to spot, with soft eyes, open mouths, and forward or relaxed ears. If your dog is nervous, it may display a tense body posture, which can be a warning sign that they're feeling anxious or scared.
Alert dogs tend to have a forward body posture, indicating they're undecided on their reaction. This can quickly escalate to playfulness or aggression, so it's essential to read their body language carefully. A stiff and tense posture, with hackles raised and teeth bared, is a clear sign of aggression.
Here's a quick guide to help you decipher your dog's body language:
Body Language
Body Language is a vital part of communication between you and your dog. Expert dog trainers know that dogs often speak through body language, which can tell you a lot about how they're feeling.
Happy dogs are wiggly and typically have soft eyes, open mouths, and forward or relaxed ears. This is a good sign that they're feeling relaxed and content.
A tense body posture, on the other hand, can indicate that your dog is nervous or anxious. They may also have a raised tail and stiff hackles on their back.
Alert dogs tend to have a forward body posture, indicating that they're undecided on their reaction. However, they may quickly become playful or aggressive.
Aggressive dogs are stiff and tense, often baring their teeth with their hackles raised. This is a clear sign that they're feeling threatened or scared.
Here's a quick reference guide to help you understand your dog's body language:
Respect Your
Respecting your dog's needs is crucial in understanding their body language. A reactive behavior can be a sign that your dog needs space or a break from play.
Dogs can get overexcited during play, and it's essential to recognize the difference between regular play and a reactive behavior. This can help prevent accidents and injuries.
Respecting your dog's boundaries is key to avoiding unwanted behaviors. A dog that's overstimulated may become aggressive or fearful.
Learning to read your dog's body language can help you identify when they need a break. This can be as simple as recognizing a raised hackles or a tense posture.
Regular play can be beneficial for your dog's physical and mental health, but it's essential to do it safely and within their limits.
Take a look at this: Anxiety in Dogs Body Language
Positive Reinforcement and Praise
Praising your dog is a powerful tool in reactive dog training. Praising and petting are considered conditioned reinforcement, as they're not directly related to basic needs like eating and sleeping.
By pairing treats with praising and petting, you can replace the primary reinforcement of treats with the secondary reinforcement of praise and petting over time. This is a key concept in understanding how to use praise effectively in training.
As you work with your dog, remember that praise can be a strong motivator, and using it consistently can help your dog learn and grow.
On a similar theme: Dog Training without Treats
Praise Daily
Praising your dog is a form of conditioned reinforcement that can be used to replace primary reinforcement like treats over time.
Praising and petting are considered conditioned reinforcement because they're not directly related to basic needs like eating and sleeping.
By pairing treats with praising and petting, you can eventually replace treats with praise alone, making it a more efficient and sustainable way to reinforce good behavior.
Conditioned reinforcement is just as effective as primary reinforcement, and with consistent practice, your dog will learn to associate praise with positive outcomes.
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Avoid Negative Reinforcement
Avoiding negative reinforcement is crucial in creating a positive environment for your dog. This means not showing any physical or verbal aggression, as it can increase the negative experience and make your dog more violent.
Devices like shock collars should be avoided at all costs, as they can cause harm and create a fearful atmosphere.
If you know that your neighborhood is prone to noisy celebrations, it's best to avoid going for a walk with your dog during those times, as it can be overwhelming for them.
By avoiding triggers that might be too strong, you can help your dog feel more comfortable and secure in their environment.
Always Be Prepared
Having a plan is crucial in reactive dog training. You need to anticipate different situations and think about how you'll handle them.
Improvising can lead to mistakes and make the situation worse. Always have a plan in place, no matter what the situation is.
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Knowing your dog's behavioral issues is key to making a plan. If you're dealing with a specific issue, like a fear of loud noises, you can prepare for potential triggers.
Being prepared means having different scenarios in mind and thinking about how you'll respond. This helps you stay calm and makes the training process more effective.
Redirecting and Redirecting Behavior
Redirecting your dog's attention is crucial when walking them, especially if they're reactive. Simply change direction, provide a toy, or call their name to shift their focus.
You don't have to make a big show of it, just go around the distraction. This subtle approach can help your dog learn to ignore triggers.
Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) is a great method for building confidence and teaching your dog to control their environment. It prioritizes your dog's decisions and uses treats and rewards less than other methods.
By incorporating BAT into your training, you can help your dog learn to manage their reactivity in a natural way. This minimally invasive approach is a great way to start your dog on the path to calm behavior.
An Emergency U-Turn is a handy trick to have up your sleeve. Say "with me" or "this way" and turn around, rewarding your dog with treats as they follow you. This can be a lifesaver when you encounter a trigger on a walk.
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An Emergency U-Turn
If your dog's reactivity is frustration-based, stemming from a desire to interact with something they can't, an Emergency U-Turn can be a lifesaver.
This simple trick involves walking a few steps with your dog on a leash, then saying "with me" or "this way", and turning around. Give them treats as they follow you.
Frustration-based leash reactivity can quickly build into a reactive display, especially in social dogs who regularly visit dog parks or attend daycare. They love other pets and get frustrated when they aren't allowed to greet them.
By using the Emergency U-Turn, you can distract your dog from triggers when you take them out for a walk. This is a fool-proof trick to ensure your dog doesn't notice something that may cause them to react.
Redirect Your
Redirecting your dog's attention is crucial when you're out on a walk and a trigger occurs. You don't need to turn around and go in the opposite direction, simply going around the distraction is enough.
If your dog is too mouthy, they may be over-excited or stimulated. Mouthing is a normal way for puppies to express themselves and investigate their environment. Puppies typically use mouthing to explore their surroundings.
Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) is a force-free method that prioritizes dogs making their own decisions. BAT builds confidence by employing principles of desensitization and allows dogs to learn about their triggers in a natural way.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can a dog reactive dog be cured?
Leash reactivity in dogs is not a curable condition, but it can be managed and limited with the right training and understanding of canine behavior
What not to do with a reactive dog?
Avoid exacerbating your dog's reactivity by not confronting it, ignoring its signals, or rushing into situations without solid training. Start by building a strong foundation of basic obedience and understanding your dog's behavior.
Sources
- Reactive Dog Training Tips and Best Practices (spiritdogtraining.com)
- Top 30 Tips For Training a Reactive Dog (servicedogtrainingschool.org)
- How to Train a Reactive Dog: Beginner's Guide (sniffspot.com)
- 7 Useful Ways to Train Your Reactive Dog - Alpha Paws (alphapaws.com)
- Managing reactive behavior (cornell.edu)
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